Sketches of Spain 2 - A Walk Into Aracena

Sustained heat has a smell, in the same way that damp has. Damp’s smell, I am more familiar with. It is an amalgam that enfolds other scents, and with Autumn coming, leaves falling, mulching leaves will soon become part of its odour. I assume sustained heat has a variability too, but I am new to it, becoming aware of it, aware of its possibility, which is obvious now, when I walked down the track for the first time from Finca el Tornero, where I was staying with Dark Angels, into the town of Aracena.

The landscape around the town of Aracena was foreign at first, dry, dusty, with chestnut trees, cork trees populating the hill sides, shading pigs, wild boar, wild mushrooms sprouting, occasional fig trees and vegetable plots. White houses dot the landscape, with a lake shimmering in the mid-day heat far behind me. Men are unloading horses to work in a ring. On my walk back, I will see one of them, further down the road, and even though I do not ride, I work with enough riders to see the stillness and quality of how he sits on the horse. There is a unity between man and horse, that demonstrates a working skill – this is a man who can ride a horse not just for pleasure but as a working animal. He looks back at my staring wonder, clearly puzzled not perhaps realising the full extent of the appreciation of the man in the Panama hat. It is always a rare privilege to watch someone use themselves well, demonstrate a skill, that demonstrability lies in its very ease, lack of effort, its stillness.

Stillness in action, stillness before action, stillness before words, 'negative capability' as Keats called it. The waiting to hear the word, see a way forward, thinking as Heidegger would have it. Poise and balance, freedom in thought and action, as Alexander would will it. These are not simply abstract notions but the concrete realities of a living life discovered, and rediscovered in any skilled activity, that benefits from poise, balance and thought, as exemplified by a man on a horse.

Next week, will once again see me in Spain, when I will get round to thanking my fellow Dark Angels as promised last week.